Since a few people have asked me for advice on what to see and do in La Union, and I’ve taken my friends on a personal tour a few times as well, I figured to write this down so that anyone can just take a look and enjoy the parts of La Union outside the surfing district too, and get to know the city I grew up in and continue to love.
This is generally the tour I take my friends on. While these places can be commuted, it’s a lot easier to go around by car. This way, the whole tour takes just about 2 hours. I can’t say that this is totally encompassing; but these are my favorite spots and I think give a great idea of SFLU from my point of view!
San Fernando
1. Pindangan ruins
I’ve been going to the church beside the Pindangan ruins since I was a kid, and I think it’s a great way to start a tour of the city. For one, it makes a great introduction to the origin of the city and its name. I think seeing the ruins itself is lovely, giving an idea of how old the city is, and how far it’s come. Take a nice walk around the old church to see the flowers and a well, and don’t forget to see the white statue of Mama Mary, the only remaining one from the original church. The giant tree behind it makes a great background too and contributes to the sense of history of the place.
Below is an excerpt from the NCCA’s Sagisag Kultura (in Filipino), interspersed with info from the city website(in English), on the origins of the name and arguably the origins of the city. I love the little trivia story on how the city is named San Fernando, yet its patron saint, for whom the cathedral in the plaza is named for, is St. William.
“Hango ang pangalan ng lugar sa lumang pangalan ng San Fernando, “Pindangan,” na sa wikang Ilokano ay nangangahulugang isang pook para sa pagpapatuyo ng “pindáng” (karneng may asin para maipreserba).Ang mga guho ay ang mga labí ng pinakamatandang simbahan sa pook na itinayô noong 6 Mayo 1786.Ang Simbahang Pindangan ay naging sagisag ng pagsasanib ng dalawang sityo, ang San Vicente de Balanac sa dalampasigan, at ang San Guillermo de Dalangdang sa paanan ng bundok. During the Spanish times, a settlement was a place where there were about 200 families. Diumano’y laging nilulusob ang San Vicente ng mga pirata tuwing tag-init, when the sea was calm and perfect for sailing (who would come and plunder settlement, taking along with them the women and children leaving behind them a trail of blood, at ang San Guillermo ng mga mamumugotulo (namumugot-ulo – headhunters) mula sa Cordillera (supposedly, during summer, when the fire trees were in bloom, the populace was attacked by headhunters who saw in the red flowers the fire trees as a sign of the gods asking for human offering.). Noong 1759, pinag-isa ang dalawang pamayanan sa pangunguna ng Agustinong fraile na si Jose Torres. Fr. Jose Torres convinced the two settlements to come together to a place not so near the sea and not so near the mountains so they will not be plagued by their annual problems. In this place, they built a church with San Guillermo, the Hermit, as the patron saint. In 1765, the newly assigned priest, however, suggested to the inhabitants that they replace the name Pindangan, to San Fernando, after the Catholic King of Spain, retaining San Guillermo as their patron saint. The name of the parish priest was Fr. Fernando Rey, Rey being the Spanish word for King. This was also the time of Diego Silang, as know, Silang would travel to and from Manila on his white horse and was killed on May 28, 1763. Ang resulta: ang Pindangan, na siyá namang muling pinangalanan bilang Ministerio de San Fernando bilang pagkilála kay Haring Fernando ng España.Noong 1892, napinsala ng lindol ang Simbahan ng Pindangan. The parish priest decided not to rebuild in the same place because during the rainy season, the church would get flooded. There were two other sites where the church was transferred until it found its present place, and it is now called the Cathedral of St. William the Hermit, of the Diocese of San Fernando, La Union. Noong 1974, itinayô ng mga madreng Carmelite ang kanilang monasteryo sa pook, at silá ang nangangalaga ng mga guho.Sa kasalukuyan, matatagpuan sa mga guho ang mga dingding ng dating simbahan, pati isang lumang balon na gawa sa batong tangrib at tisa. Nakukumutan ng mga halaman ang maraming bahagi ng mga guho. (PKJ)”
Today
there is an active church right beside it run by the Carmelite nuns.
Services are given at 7 am regularly, and on special Catholic events
such as Holy Week, Christmas, New Year, and other liturgical events.In
the past decade, the ruins have been used for cultural events, like
concerts and poetry readings, but have not been used much since. There
are efforts to restore a garden at the back, near the well. From there,
you can also see the tops of colorful houses from the collection of Al
Valencia.
Note that there is currently a small fee to be paid when visiting the ruins.
source: Pindangan Ruins. (2015). In V. Almario (Ed.), Sagisag Kultura (Vol 1). Manila: National Commission for Culture and the Arts. Retrieved from https://philippineculturaleducation.com.ph/pindangan-ruins/
http://www.sanfernandocity.gov.ph/sfcsite/index.php/en/visiting-csf/tourist-destinations/130-pindangan-ruins
2. Provincial Capital (geography, political importance of SFLU)
Next I like to bring my guests to the Kapitolyo, or the provincial capital. From you here you can have a great view of the city and see a few small exhibits on past governors and officers of La Union, and usually there are displays of photos of recent city events. Just be nice to the guards and log in before you enter. If you wish, you can go to the back and ask to see the hall where councilors meet, and you’ll also see the seals of each municipality of La Union. San Fernando is the capital of both the province of La Union and of Region I (Ilocos region). By land area it’s the smallest, but it’s quite busy and important in terms of political and administrative power. I like to use this as an excuse for why we don’t have many specialty foods or trades compared to other provinces. We’re more of an administrative center than one of specialty trade.On your way up, keep your eyes out for a Hollywood like sign on the hillside that says “Good Luck” or something. I have no idea who put it up or what it’s for, but I think it’s cool.
*if for some reason you fell in love and want to learn more about the local history, you check out these posters on the history of San Fernando from the Spanish period until Post-EDSA, uploaded on the City web site. They’re also posted physically at the Science Centrum, which is on the way to Botanical Garden (noted in our Honorable Mentions). Not much else to see in the Science Centrum, but I love that they posted a bit on history!
3. Pagoda – my place for art. find your favorite graffiti.
Leave
your car at the capitol and take a short walk to the Filipino-Japanese
friendship pagoda. Apart from the neat little bit of Japanese culture
and friendship, I also like to call it a center of urban art and
self-expression because of the multitude of graffitti. If it happens to
be freshly painted while you’re there, it’s a lovely place for photos
and to see a bird’s eye view of the other side of the city, facing the
ocean. If you’re facing the ocean, and look from left to right; from
this point, you can see Poro Point (docks), the plaza (see the almost
comically high pedestrian overpasses), Ma Cho temple (red and
well-decoreated; which you’ll get to later), and a Christ the Redeemer
statue (to your 2 o ‘clock ish if youre facing the ocean directly). If
the Pagoda is not freshly painted, you’re in luck! Find your favorite
piece of graffitti or “calligraphy”. My favorite so far was “HIPE BES”;
the rest I don’t think I care to publish online 🙂 Please share you fave
graffitti with me!!
*bonus: from the Pagoda ,
you can also go down to Orros Park. It’s this almost vertical park that
you can access from stairs right at the entrance to the Pagoda. It could
use some sprucing up, but last Christmas (2018) they put some beautiful
lights on there and I found that it’s a lovely place for a walk too.*bonus
2: Going down you can also pass by Freedom Park (?). It’s this long
straight white path of steps with statues of Philippine heroes on either
side. It’s cute, but not very shaded so I often skip if it’s hot. It’s
old, so one fun thing to do is take a photo with Emilio Aguinaldo with a
funny face, because thanks to college history we know better.
4. Town Plaza (current life, culture)
Going down from the hill where the Capitol and Pagoda are, you’ll be right in town! You’ll
see it follows the traditional plaza structure that you’ll have learned
in elementary. If you’re from abroad and unfamiliar, this is an
excellent example! So in the middle you have the Plaza with a
performance space, a park, and playgrounds. In time for Christmas 2018,
they recently put up dancing fountains too, just in front of City Hall.
Around the plaza, which is the absolute center of downtown activity,
you’ll find everything a city needs to be a city – Christ the King
College, one of the oldest schools and run by the ICM sisters; St
William’s Cathedral (patron saint as you learned recently), City Hall,
City souvenir and exhibit center (where there’s art by local artists!),
and of course the old market. If you need to withdraw money, there’s a
slew of banks in the street leading to here, so get your money now
before heading to the surfing district, where there are few ATMs.LU
Expo is also here, but it’s quite expensive. I’d recommend heading to
the old market instead for some authentic souvenirs with more choice and
better prices. Head inside and go upstairs to buy Ilocano blankets, and
anything else you may need, like Havanas slippers or an eyelash perm.
Markets are always great places to get a pulse of a city. There’s also a
fruit stand near Taipan that’s open 24 hours a day, except for Saturday
night. Isn’t that dedication? You can also buy usual street
snacks here. There used to be an excellent booksale deep inside, but it
has since closed, since I think my friends and I were the only
customers. In any case, I love going around and being familiar with all
the little shops. If you’re one who likes going to random practical
stores, I also like pointing out LU Metro houseware, where they have
everything from raincoats and plastic furniture to high end liquor at
the back. I also love seeing the crazy designs on the cheap mugs there.
That might just be me though.
5. Ma-Cho temple (culture) – finally found out how the moons work. No Dating.
Going
a little way North from town, turn right into a little alley with a red
Chinese arch to the Ma-Cho temple. Also there’s a clearly visible sign
that says “Ma-Cho Temple, this way”.Apart from the beauty of
the structure itself and the decorative statues and bright paint inside,
I like how it’s also a charming example of the fusion of Chinese and
Filipino culture. Pink and violet bougainvillea adorn the sides of the
temple, while a tall trio of arches frame a gorgeous view of the blue
sky and sea.This is clearly mainly a Buddhist temple,
evidenced by its structure: the statues of various Buddhas along the
side and little dragons on the stairway, the oven for burning paper
houses at funerals and the clear ceremonial chamber complete with joss
sticks and offerings. However, the temple is also dedicated to a Sto
Nino; the details of which I already had in a brochure but which I lost,
and will write in her later. Nobody seems to have a problem with this
religious crossover, and it’s an interesting cultural artifact.
There
are no explicit rules aside from “No Dating”, and plenty of people come
in shorts, but I’d recommend not wearing anything too casual or
revealing, out of respect.
Some people can be
seen here too consulting for advice in the traditional way. It took me a
very long time to finally understand it, including an old Chinese man
who tried to help me but couldn’t communicate in Filipino/English, and a
different angry old Chinese man who’d rather I was shooed away, but I
finally figured out how it works. How it works is with a
couple of wooden moon-shaped blocks. You say a little prayer, and ask
the gods for advice. Then, you take the two moon-shaped blocks, and drop
them onto the floor in front of you. Their position will indicate a yes
or no answer from the gods. Maybe it will take me another decade to
find someone to ask who can answer me what positions of the blocks mean
yes or no.
6. Sunset/chill
I wish I had a definitive place for you to go next, but over the years a lot has changed in my favorite places. So I’ll just give you a couple of choices! At any of these places, you can watch the gorgeous colors that paint the sky, sea and sand at about 530-630pm. I’d recommend getting here by about 530; the sunset can go quite fast once it nears the horizon.
a. I think the best option right now is to have a fruit shake or beer somewhere along San Juan. This is the town right next to San Fernando, and actually the main reason people know about and go to La Union. I like places like Sebay or Seanymph, that have seats facing the ocean, so you can watch the sun set. These and the places like it are also the older places that have been here since the time no one but foreign surfers knew about the place, so they’re pretty authentic. When surfing was still niche and only the truly dedicated and the utter beginners attempted it, watching the pros and your relatives who tried was the only entertainment here, and these ocean-facing seats would be full every Surf Break in October. These places are also very relaxed, so if you were looking for lively nightlife, you’re welcome to move elsewhere after the breathtaking sunset.
b. Before this, my favorite sunset spot recommendation was at Thunderbird resorts. It’s still in San Fernando, so it would’ve perfectly capped off a SFLU city tour. The hotel looks like Santorini, and the road has this cinematic turn I like where one minute you only see bushes, and next you’re greeted with a sweeping view of the ocean. From here you could also see the Lighthouse, harkening to the the history of this area as a port and former naval base. It’s quiet, and the rocks jutting out from the ocean are a lovely and different foreground for a sunset. However, this is a resort, and while entrance here used to be free, they’ve since tightened security and now require a P100 consumable entrance fee. If you can/want to afford, I’d recommend checking it out at least once.
Honorable mentions:
What I’ve detailed above is just my usual quick tour, and follows a convenient path. If you have more time and want to look into other local things not just in San Fernando but all around La Union, here’s a short list of recommendations:
a. Agoo church – It’s actually a Basilica, and also quite old. Nice for people who like old buildings and religious sites.
b. Botanical Garden – formerly our main claim to fame, it has since been overshadowed by the surfing and nightlife and San Juan. It could really stand to be better kept, but the large grounds make for a fairly pleasant stroll and a place for long conversation, especially if you like nature but aren’t quite up for a hike. It’s easy to follow and about a 20 minute drive from downtown.
c. Hike to the falls – The most famous is Tangadan, but there are actually a lot of small waterfalls in San Juan and Bacnotan. Just head on over to the Municipal Hall and ask for a guide. I’m hesitant to share any in particular, but when I get a fairly long list, I’ll share it. The lesser known hikes are beautiful, and with varying levels of difficulty. If you have the time, I highly recommend it. No exceptional physique required.
d. Lighthouse at Poro – I personally am good with visiting the lighthouse itself at the top of a clif, but apparently you can take a boat out to the shore below the cliff as well. I don’t know how, but others have gone.
e. SOUL Cafe in Rosario – If you’re driving, you’ll probably pass this as you enter LU from the expressway. This is one of the few restaurants that we used to go to in traveling to Manila as a kid that we still go to now, since it’s outside the expressway. I always get this dish whose name I now forget, but it’s supposed to be a hawaiian-inspired dish of ham or lechon roasted for four hours and stuffed with tomatoes and spices. It’s easy to find in the menu, or ask the waiter! It’s filling, so one serving is actually probably good for two. They also have and sell civet coffee!
f. Baywalk at Poro – One of the few parks we have aside from the Plaza and Capitol. It’s very simple but a nice place to get a little pulse of the everyday folk, and hearing the sound of the waves is always welcome.
Food in San Fernando:
The Food Project – Food parks are a hit and miss fad, and this one is a hit for me. With a curated variety of cuisine and thoughtful interior (the seats are actually comfortable, and it’s SHADED from sun and rain), and parking space, TFP is worth going not just for the gram. More expensive than a carinderia but less than a sit-down restaurant. No alcohol here since it’s right across a school.
Grumpy Joe – I didn’t expect much of this place until my friends from out-of-town hit on some really good stuff from the menu. Try the lasagna or the peanut butter chili chicken. This is right near the town too.
San Juan – Food, Nightlife and Surf
San Juan food faves
Small disclaimer: I myself am not a big foodie, but I still do enjoy a good meal and restaurant; and I’ve consulted with my much more foodie friends on this.
Surf Shack – The owners are from here, and I love the food and decor. My favorite is the wall of heroes – a wall of portraits of the long-time surfers of San Juan. Most are locals, but they’ve included visitors who have been regular coming since as long as I can remember, that they practically lived here and on these waves as well. You might even recognize that your surf instructor is one of these greats! They also have cocktails that incorporate local liquor (Bang da Bass has liquor from Bangar), and longganisa spiked pizza. They used to have ballad singers in the evenings, but I’m not sure if they still do as the mood of the area has changed a bit.
Tagpuan – One of the most budget friendly but sulit places!! You can get your bagnet fix here.
Great Northwestern – Anchored by the famous and OG El Union, they now have a wide variety of food and a bar, including smoothie bowls and a really good Japanese place. It’s a little pricey (well I guess tourist-price) so just be prepared. They do have a very nice viewdeck though, which anyone can visit.
Amare – This restaurant is also on the more expensive side, so it’s a good place for when you’re with family. Good Italian food.
San Juan Surf Resort – This place has been here forever, and is owned by a local surfer you’ve probably already seen before. It can be a hit or miss, but your chance get really good on a slow day. The menu is vast and looks like it was made with love over the years. Our favorites are the shakes (there’s three categories I think, so make sure to scan fully! but they’re all good anyway) and pancakes. The place is also clean, looks good, and has a resort-but-relaxed vibe.
Nightlife
Flotsam is by far the most popular and needs no introduction, but we also really like these three bars that are right next to each other – Surfer’s Point Deck, Le Point, and Little Surfmaid. They’re still lively but more relaxed and less crowded. The beers are also cheaper, hehe.
Special mention:
I hesitate to post but one of my favorite places is Clean Beach, near Flotsam. The vibe is very calm and quiet, and they have a great eco-friendly advocacy. It’s a great place to have quiet conversations, play board games, or just hang out and watch the waves. They also have a little borrowing library that actually has a good selection, and isn’t just for props.
Another special mention is the buko and tupig at the by-pass road. Tupig is the traditional rice snack in these parts, which you probably encountered if you came on the bus. You can have it fresh and hot here, with some just-opened buko juice.
Surf spots (in order of favoriteness)
- Urbiztondo
- Carille
- Bacnotan
- Taboc
You can probably ask people who know better than me about surfing, but I’ve been to these places so I can answer some basics like commuting/parking and washing off.
I hope this helps, and enjoy your trip! Do tell me about it after! 🙂
Ingrid Espinosa 